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Vermont dairies win 49 awards in cheese competition

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  Dairies from the Green Mountain State won many awards at the American Cheese Society's annual competition, including second place for Best of Show.


Vermont Dairies Shine Bright: Securing 49 Prestigious Awards in National Cheese Competition


In a resounding testament to the quality and craftsmanship of Vermont's dairy industry, farms and creameries from the Green Mountain State have collectively hauled in an impressive 49 awards at the annual American Cheese Society (ACS) Judging & Competition. This year's event, held in Minneapolis, Minnesota, brought together over 1,800 entries from cheesemakers across North America, making Vermont's dominance all the more remarkable. With categories spanning everything from fresh cheeses to aged varieties, blues, and innovative flavored options, Vermont's entries stood out for their exceptional flavor profiles, textures, and adherence to traditional methods blended with modern innovation. This haul not only underscores the state's reputation as a powerhouse in artisanal cheese production but also highlights the resilience and dedication of its dairy farmers amid ongoing industry challenges.

Leading the pack was Jasper Hill Farm, a renowned creamery in Greensboro, Vermont, which clinched a staggering 12 awards across various categories. Their flagship cheese, Harbison—a soft-ripened bloomy rind variety wrapped in spruce bark—took home first place in its class, praised by judges for its creamy texture and earthy, woodsy notes that evoke the forests of northern Vermont. Jasper Hill's success didn't stop there; their Bayley Hazen Blue, a raw milk blue cheese with a natural rind and bold, peppery veins, earned second place, while their clothbound cheddar varieties impressed with their nutty depth and crumbly consistency. Founded by brothers Andy and Mateo Kehler in 2000, Jasper Hill has become synonymous with Vermont's cheese renaissance. "We're thrilled to see our hard work recognized on a national stage," said Andy Kehler in a post-competition interview. "It's not just about the awards; it's about showcasing the unique terroir of Vermont's pastures and the passion of our team."

Not far behind was the Vermont Creamery in Websterville, which secured eight awards, including top honors for their fresh goat cheeses and cultured butter. Their Coupole, a geodesic dome-shaped goat cheese with a wrinkly rind and tangy, citrusy interior, was lauded as a standout in the fresh cheese category. Vermont Creamery, established in 1984 by Allison Hooper and Bob Reese, has long been a pioneer in introducing European-style cheeses to American palates. Their success at the ACS reflects a commitment to sustainable practices, such as sourcing milk from local family farms that prioritize animal welfare and regenerative agriculture. "These awards validate the collaborative spirit of Vermont's dairy community," Hooper remarked. "We're proud to represent a state where tradition meets innovation in every wheel and wedge."

Other notable winners included Grafton Village Cheese Company, which earned six awards for their aged cheddars and smoked varieties. Their two-year-aged cheddar, with its sharp, crystalline bite, took first in the mature cheddar division, a nod to the company's 125-year history rooted in the village of Grafton. Meanwhile, Cabot Creamery Cooperative, a farmer-owned cooperative representing over 600 dairy farms across New England and New York, brought home five awards, including for their clothbound cheddar aged in partnership with the Cellars at Jasper Hill. This collaboration exemplifies the interconnectedness of Vermont's dairy ecosystem, where smaller producers often team up with larger ones to scale production without compromising quality.

The competition also spotlighted emerging talents, such as Blue Ledge Farm in Salisbury, which won four awards for their goat cheeses, including the Lake's Edge—a striking ash-ripened variety with a dramatic black line running through its creamy white paste. Owners Hannah Sessions and Greg Bernhardt, who milk their own herd of Alpine goats, emphasize the farm-to-table ethos that defines Vermont's artisanal scene. "Winning at ACS is a dream come true," Sessions shared. "It motivates us to keep pushing boundaries while staying true to our roots." Similarly, Maplebrook Farm in Bennington impressed with three awards for their handcrafted ricotta and mozzarella, cheeses that capture the fresh, milky essence of Vermont's grass-fed cows.

Vermont's total of 49 awards—comprising 15 first-place, 18 second-place, and 16 third-place finishes—marks a significant increase from previous years, signaling a robust recovery for an industry that has faced headwinds like fluctuating milk prices, labor shortages, and climate change impacts. The state's dairy sector, which contributes over $2.5 billion annually to the economy and supports thousands of jobs, has been evolving. Many producers have shifted toward value-added products like specialty cheeses to diversify revenue streams beyond fluid milk. This pivot is evident in the ACS results, where Vermont entries excelled in categories emphasizing sustainability and innovation, such as low-intervention cheeses made from pasture-raised milk.

The ACS Judging & Competition, now in its 40th year, is widely regarded as the Oscars of the cheese world. Judges, including cheesemongers, educators, and industry experts, evaluate entries blind based on criteria like appearance, aroma, flavor, body, and texture. Vermont's strong showing isn't new; the state has consistently ranked among the top performers, often outpacing larger dairy states like Wisconsin and California in per capita awards. This success can be attributed to several factors: the region's cool climate and lush pastures produce high-quality milk with elevated butterfat content, ideal for cheesemaking. Additionally, Vermont's supportive agricultural policies, including grants for small farms and initiatives like the Vermont Cheese Council, foster a collaborative environment that encourages experimentation and excellence.

Beyond the accolades, these wins have tangible benefits for the winners and the state as a whole. Award-winning cheeses often see a surge in demand, boosting sales at farmers' markets, specialty shops, and online platforms. For instance, Jasper Hill's products are now featured in high-end retailers like Whole Foods and Murray's Cheese, expanding their reach far beyond Vermont's borders. Economically, this translates to increased tourism, as cheese enthusiasts flock to the state's cheese trails and farm tours. The Vermont Agency of Agriculture, Food & Markets celebrated the achievements, with Secretary Anson Tebbetts stating, "Vermont's dairy farmers are the backbone of our rural communities. These awards shine a spotlight on their ingenuity and remind the world why Vermont cheese is second to none."

Looking ahead, the momentum from this year's ACS could propel Vermont's dairies into new ventures. Several winners are exploring expansions, such as increasing production capacity or developing new flavors inspired by local ingredients like maple syrup or wild foraged herbs. There's also a growing emphasis on environmental stewardship; many awardees participate in programs aimed at reducing carbon footprints through practices like rotational grazing and methane capture. As consumer preferences shift toward ethically produced, locally sourced foods, Vermont's model positions it as a leader in the sustainable dairy movement.

The stories behind these awards reveal a deeper narrative of perseverance. Take, for example, the von Trapp Farmstead in Waitsfield, which won two awards for their organic cheeses like Oma, a washed-rind beauty aged in the farm's cellars. Owned by the von Trapp family—yes, descendants of the famous Sound of Music clan—the farm combines Austrian cheesemaking traditions with Vermont's bounty. Or consider Sweet Rowen Farmstead in West Glover, whose three awards for their cultured butters and fresh cheeses highlight the revival of small-scale dairying in remote areas.

In total, 20 different Vermont producers shared in the glory, from established names to up-and-comers, painting a vibrant picture of an industry that's as diverse as it is dedicated. This collective triumph at the ACS not only celebrates the artistry of cheesemaking but also reinforces Vermont's identity as the epicenter of American artisanal dairy. As the winners return home with their ribbons and renewed vigor, they carry forward a legacy that blends heritage with forward-thinking innovation, ensuring that Vermont's cheeses will continue to captivate taste buds for generations to come.

The ripple effects extend to education and community engagement. Many of these dairies offer workshops and tastings, educating the public on the nuances of cheese production and the importance of supporting local agriculture. For younger generations, these successes serve as inspiration, potentially drawing new talent into the field and addressing succession challenges faced by aging farmers.

In an era where industrial food systems dominate, Vermont's award-winning dairies stand as beacons of authenticity. Their 49 accolades are more than just hardware; they're a validation of a way of life that prioritizes quality over quantity, community over corporations, and flavor over fleeting trends. As the cheese world turns its eyes to Vermont once again, one thing is clear: the Green Mountain State's dairy prowess is not just surviving—it's thriving.

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